I've used the free blogs on WordPress(dot)com way back when (and they're still there), but started up a new one for a project that I want to be around after I'm no longer around (or have hosting, etc).

I'm astounded at just how impossible it is to use Gutenberg with that interface. I now understand all the criticisms from noobs about it.

How someone launched that, used it and thought "yeah, this is great" is beyond me.

Unfortunately, all the old themes are gone, and there is no way to turn off Gutenberg (as far as I can tell)